The Ford Fiesta ST tune most players mean in CSR Racing 2 is the 2016 Tier 1 gold-star Fiesta ST. For a fully built example, the repeatable quarter-mile reference is 204/3.9 nitrous, 3.05 final drive, and 20/80 tire pressure. That setting has been published in multiple CSR2 tune references alongside an approximately 11.80-second quarter-mile result. It is a full-build tune, not a promise that every Fiesta will run the same time.
Before copying any numbers, confirm the car. CSR2 has several Ford models and event cars, while this setup is for the 2016 Ford Fiesta ST, a Tier 1, one-gold-star car. A current car database lists a fully maxed reference at 349 performance points and 627 EVO with all seven Stage 6 parts and its available Fusion Parts. If the garage screen shows different upgrades, Fusion Parts, elite state, or EVO, the exact tune and shift pattern will not translate directly.
Fully maxed quarter-mile baseline
| Tuning panel | Reference setting | What it controls |
|---|---|---|
| Nitrous | 204 / 3.9 | Nitrous delivery and duration |
| Final drive | 3.05 | Overall gearing balance |
| Tires | 20 / 80 | Tire balance setting |
Use these figures as a starting point only after the Fiesta has the upgrades required to unlock each tuning panel. CSR2’s tuning system unlocks nitrous adjustment with a nitrous upgrade, final-drive adjustment with a transmission upgrade, and tire adjustment with a tire upgrade. A partially built car therefore cannot always reproduce all three values, and forcing a maxed-car setting onto it can make the dyno time worse.
Set the tune in the right order
Install the available upgrades and Fusion Parts first. Then open the tuning screen and set nitrous, final drive, and tires to the reference values. Run the dyno after each meaningful change, then use actual test races or trials to confirm the launch, shifts, and race-distance result. The dyno is a simulated comparison figure; it does not reproduce the driver’s launch and shift timing.
Use the quarter-mile dyno when preparing for Tier 1 ladder races, crew races, or any event that specifies that distance. A published Fiesta tune around 11.80 seconds is a comparison point for a fully upgraded car, not a target for a Stage 3 or Stage 5 car. If the dyno is materially slower, inspect upgrades and fusions before blaming the three sliders. If it is close, move to shift practice rather than making random tuning changes.
Shift pattern matters as much as the sliders
A commonly published full-build pattern begins with an early perfect launch, shifts to second gear at about 39 mph, activates nitrous in second, then shifts again at about 67 mph before continuing with well-timed shifts. That sequence is a reference for the maxed 2016 Fiesta, not a universal law. The exact speed can move with missing Fusion Parts, an imperfect launch, or a game update.
Practice in test races or trials before a boss or milestone race. First repeat the same launch and nitrous point five times. Then change only one part of the pattern, such as a slightly earlier second-gear shift, and compare the result. A car that seems slow on the dyno may simply be receiving nitrous too early, too late, or in an unhelpful gear. Keep a note of the best actual run instead of trusting a single lucky launch.
Why the tune is not for every race
The listed Fiesta setting is a quarter-mile setup. CSR2 also uses half-mile races, where the car has more distance to use upper gears. A quarter-mile final drive can be too short or too long for a particular half-mile event depending on the upgrades and shift pattern. Do not copy a 1/4-mile reference into a 1/2-mile challenge and expect identical results.
For a half-mile race, begin from the same fully upgraded build, then test final drive and nitrous timing in actual half-mile races. Make a small final-drive change, check its dyno effect, and see whether the Fiesta reaches redline too soon or finishes far below it in the race. Then test nitrous in a different gear if necessary. Keep tire pressure stable until the gearing and nitrous behaviour are understood; changing all three settings together makes the result impossible to diagnose.
How to tune a partial Fiesta ST
A Stage 5 Fiesta or a car missing Fusion Parts needs its own tune. Start with the installed upgrade state, open the dyno, and make one adjustment at a time. For nitrous, compare a delivery setting that gives a short, stronger burst with one that gives a longer burst. For final drive, compare a slightly shorter ratio with a slightly longer one. For tires, test a small change around the current balance rather than pushing immediately to an extreme.
Write down the quickest run and the exact values that made it. If a Stage 6 part arrives, refit it, then repeat the process; new parts can change the useful nitrous window and the gear at which the car finishes. This is why a fully maxed reference is helpful but cannot be used as an upgrade path. It identifies the destination, while the dyno identifies the best route for the actual garage.
Race-day checklist
- Check the model: use the 2016 Tier 1 gold-star Ford Fiesta ST, not a different Ford or a borrowed event setup.
- Check the build: compare upgrades, Stage 6 parts, Fusion Parts, performance points, and EVO with the full-build reference before expecting its result.
- Match the distance: use the 204/3.9, 3.05, and 20/80 baseline for quarter-mile testing; retest for half-mile races.
- Practice the launch: reproduce an early perfect start, second-gear nitrous, and consistent shifts before changing sliders.
- Change one variable: test a single slider or a single shift point, then record the outcome.
The best Fiesta ST tune is therefore a verified maxed-car baseline plus a method. For the fully upgraded 2016 Tier 1 Fiesta, begin at 204/3.9 nitrous, 3.05 final drive, and 20/80 tires, then make the shift pattern consistent. For every other build or distance, let the dyno comparison and controlled test races decide the final values.